HUNTER MEDINA 20
GET THE BEST OUT OF YOUR MEDINA
THE MAST
Setting up the mast and standing rigging can have the most profound effect on the way your MEDINA sails and behaves, especially in heavy weather. A good starting point is getting the foot of the mast in the right position; for most boats this is towards the aftermost position allowed by the class rules. When the mast is raised the forestay should be adjusted to give a rake of about 15” to 18” aft. The upper shrouds should then be tightened until the middle of the mast bends forward about 3” being careful to make sure both shrouds are screwed up the same amount. The main halyard can be used to check the rake and also to check that the mast is upright. Now tighten the lower shrouds equally until the mast is straight sideways and fore and aft. At this point all four shrouds should be fairly tight. If not, tighten all four shrouds equally until a good tension is achieved. A very slight forward bow (not more than 1”) is permissible when the mast is finally set up.
DRAUGHT & TWIST - THE KEYS TO GOOD SAIL SHAPE
Most sails are cut with their maximum fullness (or draught) about 40% back from the luff. This creates their aerofoil shape. This maximum fullness should remain in the same approximate place up to the really fresh wind conditions. Only then can it be moved forward, thereby opening the leeches and flattening the sail. The ensuing points will help to illustrate how to achieve this. Twist in the sails is induced to make allowance for differing apparent wind speeds at the masthead. Again, the following points should help to get the correct twist.
HALYARD TENSION
When you hoist your sails, halyard tension is the first factor to affect shape. The jib halyard tension should be sufficient to remove scallops on the luff between the hanks. Vertical wrinkles or creases on the luff mean too much tension, and too much tension brings the draught or fullness forward, thus flattening the sail too much. A flat sail is only desirable when sailing windward in a fresh breeze. Slight adjustments to halyard tension are often needed when the wind changes when you are sailing.
The main halyard tension has a similar effect on the sail. Vertical creases on the luff mean too tight. Heavy horizontal lines mean too loose. In light winds and when running it is better to err on the side of looseness - thus keeping plenty of shape in the sail. The main sail clew outhaul has a similar effect. Keep it loose for running or light airs. Tighten it to flatten the sail in a blow. In light airs, never have so much tension that there are horizontal creases along the boom.
JIB SHEET TENSION
In light airs do not have the sheet too tight. Keep the genoa a few inches clear of the spreaders (be sure that these are well taped.) When sailing to windward the woollies will show when you are in the groove. When you sail too high or the sheet is too loose, the windward woollies will lift. Too free, or the sheet too tight, the leeward ones will lift. When they all fly straight and dead aft, you have got it all correct.
JIB TWIST
The correct degree of twist is dictated by the jib-sheet fairlead position. To get things set up correctly, you must first fit "woollies" to the luff of the jib. These are invaluable as tell-tales. Take three 11” long pieces of black wool. Thread each through the sailcloth about 7” back from the luff at equal intervals up to the luff, taking care to avoid coinciding with the seams of the sail. Then tie a single knot in the woolly on each side of the sail so that it cannot pull out and so that you are left with a 5” length hanging on each side of the sail. Then go sailing... First, put the fairleads where they look about right. Then sheet in and sail to windward then gently ease the jib sheet. If the top windward woollies are the first to lift, fairlead forward. If the bottom woollies are the first to lift, fairlead aft. When all the windward woollies lift at the same time, you have got it right. Mark the position for each sail.
MAINSAIL TWIST
Again, it helps to fit telltales of narrow nylon ribbon or similar. This time about 3 attached to the leach of the sail. They will all stream dead astern when things are right. In light airs pull the main traveler up to windward and tension on the sheet lightly so that the boom lies along the centre line. If the telltales droop, the sail is stalling, so release some sheet, which will loosen the leech a bit and induce some twist. If there is too much twist the top of the sail will start to backwind, so sheet in a bit. As a general rule the top batten should be parallel to the boom. In light airs, do not over-sheet the main - keep it full and drawing. As the wind strength increases, let the traveler off to leeward and compensate by increasing sheet tension. When it is blowing hard, the traveler will be well of to leeward and the sheet tight, so that the sail is not too full. In the puffs feather the sail by
MAST BEND AND RIGGING TENSION
The Medina is 7/8 rigged. The adjustments to mast bend and rake that this facilitates make for very efficient sailing. The adjustable backstay tackle is a simple tool and should be used since it can dramatically improve sail shape and overall performance. When sailing with the wind forward of the beam, the forestay should be tightened by pulling on the backstay tackle. The stronger the wind, the more you tension the backstay (within reason) and bend the mast. This has the effect of flattening the main, freeing off the top of the main and improving the slot between main and jib. All of which increase drive and reduce heel when it is blowing hard. The top of the main is back-winding (reducing heel), the rest of the sail is flattened and working, and the boat is sailing upright, very fast and very comfortable in about 20 knots of wind. When sailing off the wind, the backstay should be eased again so that the masthead shifts forward. In light airs, let the mast off to a vertical position when running. You will find that this adjustable backstay is a delightful tool and that it makes a big difference - especially to windward in a blow. But do not go mad and overdo it! You could damage the spar.
CUNNINGHAMS
The main sail is fitted with either a luff Cunningham, or both luff and leech Cunningham. By pulling these down you will remove fullness from the sail when it breezes up. This flattening will enable you to retain drive and power without undue heeling. Remember to let them off again when you are running, since it is then that you want fullness in the main even if it is a bit windy. To pull down the leech Cunningham on a breezy beat, free off the kicker and mainsheet first or it will be very difficult to tension it correctly.
SAIL REDUCTION
All boats - from a Mirror Dinghy to a 60' Admirals Cupper - go faster if prevented from heeling too much. Lee rail awash and stanchions slicing the wave-tops may feel fast, but never is. It is also wet, uncomfortable, and the rudder can start to act as a brake. The Medina has a large sail plan for her size. This is because one can always reduce sail when there is a lot of wind, but one cannot do much to increase sail when there is very little. With modern, high speed jiffy reefing systems, one can afford the luxury of plenty of mainsail for light winds. Thus the No. 1 genoa is what a genoa should be - a light weather sail. Once there is 16 knots of wind, this should be replaced by the standard 120% short overlap genoa. This sail, with full main, still provides a large sail plan and enables the boat to point very high. When the wind is up to about force 4 to 5 (depending on sea conditions) the first reef should be pulled in. You now have, in effect, a normal masthead rig. When you are not racing and the wind is over force 5 and you feel like a lazy ride, the boat sails and tacks beautifully and in complete balance with either main or 120% only, and it is still faster than the opposition. Remember – over-canvassing and too much heel are decidedly counterproductive - as well as wet, uncomfortable and unpopular with the crew.
SPINNAKER AND ITS POLE
Spinnaker clews should be kept level. Never over-sheet. Keep the sheets so that the luff is on verge of folding, with the pole at right angles to the wind. Keep pole well aft in heavy winds. Heel to windward on dead runs in light winds. A barber hauler on the guy (to pull it down to deck level and alter the angle to the pole) is very effective in certain conditions.
GET THE BEST OUT OF YOUR MEDINA
THE MAST
Setting up the mast and standing rigging can have the most profound effect on the way your MEDINA sails and behaves, especially in heavy weather. A good starting point is getting the foot of the mast in the right position; for most boats this is towards the aftermost position allowed by the class rules. When the mast is raised the forestay should be adjusted to give a rake of about 15” to 18” aft. The upper shrouds should then be tightened until the middle of the mast bends forward about 3” being careful to make sure both shrouds are screwed up the same amount. The main halyard can be used to check the rake and also to check that the mast is upright. Now tighten the lower shrouds equally until the mast is straight sideways and fore and aft. At this point all four shrouds should be fairly tight. If not, tighten all four shrouds equally until a good tension is achieved. A very slight forward bow (not more than 1”) is permissible when the mast is finally set up.
DRAUGHT & TWIST - THE KEYS TO GOOD SAIL SHAPE
Most sails are cut with their maximum fullness (or draught) about 40% back from the luff. This creates their aerofoil shape. This maximum fullness should remain in the same approximate place up to the really fresh wind conditions. Only then can it be moved forward, thereby opening the leeches and flattening the sail. The ensuing points will help to illustrate how to achieve this. Twist in the sails is induced to make allowance for differing apparent wind speeds at the masthead. Again, the following points should help to get the correct twist.
HALYARD TENSION
When you hoist your sails, halyard tension is the first factor to affect shape. The jib halyard tension should be sufficient to remove scallops on the luff between the hanks. Vertical wrinkles or creases on the luff mean too much tension, and too much tension brings the draught or fullness forward, thus flattening the sail too much. A flat sail is only desirable when sailing windward in a fresh breeze. Slight adjustments to halyard tension are often needed when the wind changes when you are sailing.
The main halyard tension has a similar effect on the sail. Vertical creases on the luff mean too tight. Heavy horizontal lines mean too loose. In light winds and when running it is better to err on the side of looseness - thus keeping plenty of shape in the sail. The main sail clew outhaul has a similar effect. Keep it loose for running or light airs. Tighten it to flatten the sail in a blow. In light airs, never have so much tension that there are horizontal creases along the boom.
JIB SHEET TENSION
In light airs do not have the sheet too tight. Keep the genoa a few inches clear of the spreaders (be sure that these are well taped.) When sailing to windward the woollies will show when you are in the groove. When you sail too high or the sheet is too loose, the windward woollies will lift. Too free, or the sheet too tight, the leeward ones will lift. When they all fly straight and dead aft, you have got it all correct.
JIB TWIST
The correct degree of twist is dictated by the jib-sheet fairlead position. To get things set up correctly, you must first fit "woollies" to the luff of the jib. These are invaluable as tell-tales. Take three 11” long pieces of black wool. Thread each through the sailcloth about 7” back from the luff at equal intervals up to the luff, taking care to avoid coinciding with the seams of the sail. Then tie a single knot in the woolly on each side of the sail so that it cannot pull out and so that you are left with a 5” length hanging on each side of the sail. Then go sailing... First, put the fairleads where they look about right. Then sheet in and sail to windward then gently ease the jib sheet. If the top windward woollies are the first to lift, fairlead forward. If the bottom woollies are the first to lift, fairlead aft. When all the windward woollies lift at the same time, you have got it right. Mark the position for each sail.
MAINSAIL TWIST
Again, it helps to fit telltales of narrow nylon ribbon or similar. This time about 3 attached to the leach of the sail. They will all stream dead astern when things are right. In light airs pull the main traveler up to windward and tension on the sheet lightly so that the boom lies along the centre line. If the telltales droop, the sail is stalling, so release some sheet, which will loosen the leech a bit and induce some twist. If there is too much twist the top of the sail will start to backwind, so sheet in a bit. As a general rule the top batten should be parallel to the boom. In light airs, do not over-sheet the main - keep it full and drawing. As the wind strength increases, let the traveler off to leeward and compensate by increasing sheet tension. When it is blowing hard, the traveler will be well of to leeward and the sheet tight, so that the sail is not too full. In the puffs feather the sail by
MAST BEND AND RIGGING TENSION
The Medina is 7/8 rigged. The adjustments to mast bend and rake that this facilitates make for very efficient sailing. The adjustable backstay tackle is a simple tool and should be used since it can dramatically improve sail shape and overall performance. When sailing with the wind forward of the beam, the forestay should be tightened by pulling on the backstay tackle. The stronger the wind, the more you tension the backstay (within reason) and bend the mast. This has the effect of flattening the main, freeing off the top of the main and improving the slot between main and jib. All of which increase drive and reduce heel when it is blowing hard. The top of the main is back-winding (reducing heel), the rest of the sail is flattened and working, and the boat is sailing upright, very fast and very comfortable in about 20 knots of wind. When sailing off the wind, the backstay should be eased again so that the masthead shifts forward. In light airs, let the mast off to a vertical position when running. You will find that this adjustable backstay is a delightful tool and that it makes a big difference - especially to windward in a blow. But do not go mad and overdo it! You could damage the spar.
CUNNINGHAMS
The main sail is fitted with either a luff Cunningham, or both luff and leech Cunningham. By pulling these down you will remove fullness from the sail when it breezes up. This flattening will enable you to retain drive and power without undue heeling. Remember to let them off again when you are running, since it is then that you want fullness in the main even if it is a bit windy. To pull down the leech Cunningham on a breezy beat, free off the kicker and mainsheet first or it will be very difficult to tension it correctly.
SAIL REDUCTION
All boats - from a Mirror Dinghy to a 60' Admirals Cupper - go faster if prevented from heeling too much. Lee rail awash and stanchions slicing the wave-tops may feel fast, but never is. It is also wet, uncomfortable, and the rudder can start to act as a brake. The Medina has a large sail plan for her size. This is because one can always reduce sail when there is a lot of wind, but one cannot do much to increase sail when there is very little. With modern, high speed jiffy reefing systems, one can afford the luxury of plenty of mainsail for light winds. Thus the No. 1 genoa is what a genoa should be - a light weather sail. Once there is 16 knots of wind, this should be replaced by the standard 120% short overlap genoa. This sail, with full main, still provides a large sail plan and enables the boat to point very high. When the wind is up to about force 4 to 5 (depending on sea conditions) the first reef should be pulled in. You now have, in effect, a normal masthead rig. When you are not racing and the wind is over force 5 and you feel like a lazy ride, the boat sails and tacks beautifully and in complete balance with either main or 120% only, and it is still faster than the opposition. Remember – over-canvassing and too much heel are decidedly counterproductive - as well as wet, uncomfortable and unpopular with the crew.
SPINNAKER AND ITS POLE
Spinnaker clews should be kept level. Never over-sheet. Keep the sheets so that the luff is on verge of folding, with the pole at right angles to the wind. Keep pole well aft in heavy winds. Heel to windward on dead runs in light winds. A barber hauler on the guy (to pull it down to deck level and alter the angle to the pole) is very effective in certain conditions.